The third-generation Ford F-150 Raptor (2021+) is already a formidable off-road truck from the factory. It comes with advanced Fox Live Valve shocks and 35″ (or even 37″ in the Raptor 37 package) tires, providing excellent ground clearance and suspension travel. However, many Raptor owners consider lift kits to customize stance or enhance off-road capability even further. This guide breaks down the main lift kit options – leveling kits, mid-travel kits, long-travel kits, and full suspension lift systems – explaining what each is, their pros and cons, and how they affect ride quality, warranty, and off-road performance. By the end, you’ll have general insights to choose the right lift for your needs.
Types of Lift Kits Overview
Leveling Kits: A simple modification that raises the front of the Raptor to sit more level with the rear. It usually provides 1.5–3 inches of front lift via spring spacers or upgraded springs
. Leveling kits are mostly about correcting the factory rake (nose-down stance) and allowing slightly larger tires, without significantly altering the suspension geometry.
Mid-Travel Kits: These are moderate suspension upgrades that increase suspension travel and durability without the extensive changes of a long-travel kit. A mid-travel setup often includes upgraded shocks (coilovers) and sometimes aftermarket upper control arms (and occasionally lower control arms) to allow more wheel travel than stock. They may or may not widen the track width (some mid-travel kits keep stock width, while others increase track by a small amount, such as +1–3″ per side). The goal is improved off-road performance and damping control, while retaining good on-road manners.
Long-Travel Kits: These are the most extreme bolt-on suspension upgrades. Long-travel kits replace most of the front suspension components – typically wider upper and lower control arms, extended tie-rods, longer axles/CV shafts, new coilovers and bypass shocks, and reinforced mounts. They widen the Raptor’s track significantly (about +3–3.5″ per side) and can increase wheel travel by ~+50% over stock (for example, achieving ~18–19″ of front travel vs ~13″ stock on a Gen 3 Raptor). These kits are aimed at high-speed desert running and big jumps, essentially transforming the Raptor into a true pre-runner style truck. Long-travel setups often require fiberglass fender flares to cover the increased wheel track.
Full Suspension Lift Kits: In this context, “full suspension systems” refer to large lift kits (3–6″ of lift) that raise the entire truck for a taller stance. These are common on standard F-150s for a “monster truck” look, and similar kits exist for the Raptor (e.g. 4″ lift kits from BDS or Fabtech for Gen 1/2 Raptors). Such kits usually include drop-down brackets for the control arms, taller steering knuckles, and spacers or new springs, to maintain factory suspension geometry at a higher ride height. A full lift allows much larger tires (even 38–40″) and extra frame clearance, but does not dramatically increase suspension travel – it mainly raises the ride height. Essentially, it’s about ground clearance and appearance more than improving the Raptor’s existing high-speed off-road suspension performance.
Below, we dive into each option in detail:
Leveling Kits
Leveling kits are the most popular first lift modification for Raptor owners because they are simple and affordable. The Raptor, like most trucks, sits a bit nose-down from the factory. A leveling kit uses either a spring spacer or a replacement spring up front to lift the front end ~1.5–2.5″, eliminating that rake. On Gen 3 Raptors, common leveling methods include perch collar spacers that mount on the front shocks or coil spring replacements (e.g. Eibach Pro-Lift or Geiser Offroad springs).
How it works: A perch collar spacer mounts on the stock Fox shock, compressing the spring slightly to give lift. Aftermarket lift springs are slightly taller or stiffer than stock, which raises the ride height. The rear is usually left stock (though some owners add a small rear spacer if they want to maintain a slight rake for load handling).
Pros:
- Cost-effective and easy to install: Leveling kits typically cost a few hundred dollars or less. Many are simple enough for DIY installation (spacers that require minimal disassembly)
- Improved stance: Removes the factory nose-down rake, giving the Raptor a more aggressive, level stance
- Fit slightly larger tires: By raising the front, you gain a bit more clearance for bigger tires (for example, fitting 37″ tires on a non-37 Package Raptor may be easier with a ~2″ level)
- Maintains factory ride (mostly): Because you’re not drastically altering components, the overall on-road handling remains close to stock
. In some cases, owners even report improved firmness and less nose-dive under braking due to the added preload
Cons:
- Limited off-road improvement: A leveling kit does not significantly increase suspension travel or off-road capability. It’s largely for appearance. The Raptor’s shocks will reach full droop sooner (since the truck sits higher in the travel at rest), so you actually have slightly less down-travel available.
- Potential ride stiffness: Especially with spacers (perch collars), the front springs are preloaded more. This yields a “sportier” feel with reduced body roll and brake dive, but sharp bumps can feel harsher. Replacement lift springs like Eibach are a bit stiffer (600 lb/in vs ~550 stock) which makes the ride firmer and more controlled, trading some super-plush feel for better handling. Most owners find this acceptable or even preferable, but it does change the factory ride.
- Added wear on front components: By altering the suspension geometry, leveling can slightly increase wear on ball joints, tie rods, and CV axles (due to steeper angles). One forum member noted it “can compromise…longevity of the front suspension/steering components”. In general, a mild 1.5–2″ level is low risk, but it’s a consideration.
- Minor impact on fuel economy: Lifting the front raises the vehicle’s frontal area and center of gravity. Some owners have observed a 1–2 MPG drop after leveling (especially when fitting bigger tires).
- Warranty considerations: A spacer or spring level kit is relatively small, but technically any suspension modification could jeopardize related warranty claims. If a front shock leaks or a CV joint fails, a dealer might blame the lift. One owner noted that while their dealer didn’t mind their leveling kit, “if your ball joints wear out prematurely, don’t expect to be covered” under warranty. (We’ll discuss warranty in a dedicated section below as well.)
- Ride Quality: For most drivers, a leveling kit has minimal impact on everyday ride quality. The truck may feel slightly firmer or more “planted” in front. For example, adding a 2″ perch collar yields a sportier ride with less body roll and nose-dive, at the expense of sharper feel over potholes. Upgraded springs like Geiser’s progressive coils can actually improve on-road ride in some cases – they start softer and get stiffer as they compress, remaining smooth on-road but handling big bumps better off-road. Overall, the Raptor’s comfort is largely retained with a small leveling lift.
- Off-Road Performance: The leveling kit alone doesn’t add capability in terms of suspension travel or damping. It does provide a bit more front ground clearance and approach angle, which can help in mild off-roading (avoiding scraping the front skid plate on steep inclines). But since droop travel is reduced slightly and the factory Fox shocks remain, the high-speed off-road performance is essentially unchanged. Think of it as a stance change, not a performance mod – you’ll still benefit from the Raptor’s excellent stock suspension, just with a higher front end.
- Warranty Impact: Formally, Ford could deny warranty claims for issues related to an aftermarket lift (per the Magnuson-Moss Act, they must prove the mod caused the failure). In practice, a small leveling kit is rarely an issue for unrelated claims. However, any problems with the front suspension or even potentially the 4WD system could be blamed on the lift. A dealer might argue the added stress of the lift caused a CV joint or ball joint to fail and refuse warranty repair. It really depends on the dealer. Generally, a leveling kit is low risk, but be aware it’s still a modification. (If warranty is a top concern, you might wait until the warranty period is over, or consult your dealer about their stance on mild lifts.)
Mid-Travel Suspension Kits
Mid-travel kits are a step up in both performance and complexity. The idea of a mid-travel kit is to increase wheel travel and improve shock damping without going to a full long-travel race setup. These kits often replace the Raptor’s shocks with high-performance coilovers (and sometimes add secondary bypass shocks), and may include stronger upper control arms or even lower arms. Unlike long-travel kits, mid-travel setups typically retain near-stock track width and mounting points – they are often bolt-on upgrades using the factory suspension geometry. For example, a popular configuration is a set of 3.0” diameter aftermarket coilovers (from King, Fox, Icon, etc.) paired with billet upper arms that allow a bit more droop travel than the stock arms (by using a high-angle uniball or ball joint). Some mid-travel packages for the Gen 3 Raptor also include bump stop kits and upgraded rear springs to handle off-road abuse.
In short, mid-travel kits aim to make your Raptor’s suspension even tougher and smoother off-road, without radically changing the suspension design. Many Raptor owners who frequently drive washboard roads, dunes, or moderate trails find this to be the sweet spot: more capability and control, but still daily-drivable.
Pros:
- Noticeable Travel Increase: Mid-travel setups typically provide a moderate increase in wheel travel over stock. It won’t be as much as long-travel, but you might gain a couple of inches of usable travel. (There’s no fixed number, as it varies by kit, but expect maybe 10–20% more travel) – one source notes “you won’t be doubling your suspension travel with just a mid travel kit” yet it will still be “far better than any stock suspension system in the dirt.” This extra travel helps soak up larger bumps and whoops at speed.
- Better Shock Damping and Cooling: Aftermarket coilovers in mid-travel kits often have larger shock bodies, external reservoirs, or even dual shocks (coilover + bypass). For example, Fox’s 3.0 Live Valve race series or King 3.0 shocks have much more oil capacity and sophisticated valving compared to stock. This means less shock fade and more consistent damping during hard off-road use. The result is the Raptor can handle rough terrain at speed with improved control and comfort (fewer bottom-outs, less bouncing).
- Stronger Components: Upgraded upper arms (usually billet aluminum or boxed steel with uniball joints) are tougher than the stock arms. They can handle jumping and harsh landings without bending and often use motorsport-grade uniball/ball joints for greater articulation. Overall durability off-road is improved.
- Maintains Good On-Road Manners: A mid-travel kit generally preserves factory steering geometry and track width, so the on-road handling remains predictable. The truck might sit slightly taller (some kits include a small lift, e.g. adjustable coilovers that can give 1–2″ lift), but nothing drastic. Many mid-travel coilovers are tuned to ride comfortably on-road; in some cases the ride can be even better than stock, as quality shocks can smooth out choppy pavement. For instance, owners report that with Eibach or Geiser springs and quality shocks, the Raptor feels more controlled and less “floaty” without being punishing.
- No Fiberglass or Major Mods Required: Unlike long-travel, you typically do not need to cut the frame or install wider fenders with mid-travel. It’s mostly bolt-on parts. This keeps the truck looking mostly stock and simplifies installation.
Cons:
- Higher Cost (vs leveling): Mid-travel kits are a bigger investment. A set of high-end front coilovers and upper arms can run several thousand dollars. Complete mid-travel packages (front and rear upgrades) might be in the $4K–$8K range, depending on shocks and components. It’s a significant jump in cost over a simple leveling kit.
- Installation Complexity: While usually bolt-on, installing new coilovers, upper arms, and bump stops is more involved than a spacer lift. You may need professional installation or advanced DIY skills (compressing springs, aligning the front end, etc.). However, no major fabrication is typically needed – any competent off-road shop can handle it.
- Limited Gain vs. Long-Travel: A mid-travel kit is somewhat of a “compromise” setup – more capable than stock, but not as extreme as a long-travel. If you are an extremely aggressive off-roader, you might still find the limits of a mid-travel kit in very large whoops or jumps. In other words, you pay a fair sum for improvement, but you haven’t maxed out what’s possible. Some enthusiasts debate whether it’s worth doing upper arms and shocks, or just jumping straight to long-travel. It really depends on your usage.
- Potential NVH or Maintenance: Some mid-travel kits use uniball joints or heim joints that can transmit a bit more Noise, Vibration, Harshness (NVH) into the cabin and may require periodic maintenance (cleaning, re-greasing, or replacing after heavy use). However, many newer kits use heavy-duty ball joints to avoid this. It’s a minor point, but worth noting if you want a totally stock-like experience.
- Warranty is Affected: Replacing suspension components will almost certainly mean those parts aren’t under Ford warranty anymore (though the aftermarket parts often have their own warranty). And if something in the suspension or even steering fails, Ford could blame the aftermarket parts. Essentially, a mid-travel kit will void the warranty on your suspension components and anything related that a dealer can tie to the modification. If warranty coverage is important, you’ll be relying on the aftermarket manufacturer or an off-road shop for any issues.
Mid-travel vs. Long-travel: Upgraded coilovers and stronger control arms (like the ones shown above on a Raptor) let the suspension cycle more freely and handle rough terrain better. Mid-travel setups use bolt-on parts to improve performance without dramatically altering the Raptor’s suspension design.
- Ride Quality: Generally, a well-tuned mid-travel suspension will offer excellent ride quality. On-road, it may feel slightly firmer or taller than stock, but high-quality shocks can actually make the truck ride smoother over bumps than the factory suspension. For example, Fox’s 3.0 coilovers have adjustable compression/rebound settings to fine-tune comfort. Many owners report the truck feels more stable and planted both on highway and rough roads after a mid-travel upgrade. You might hear a bit more suspension noise (especially if spherical bearings are used), but the overall comfort remains high.
- Off-Road Performance: This is where mid-travel kits shine. The Raptor was already good; a mid-travel kit makes it great. You can expect to tackle whoops, washboards, and moderate jumps at higher speeds with confidence. The increased wheel travel means the tires stay in contact with ground longer over undulations, improving traction and control. The beefier shocks resist fade, so during extended off-road runs the damping stays consistent. In short, you can push a mid-travel Raptor much harder off-road than a stock one – it will feel closer to a race truck. As one source put it, “a stout mid travel setup will perform far better than any stock suspension system in the dirt”.
- Warranty Impact: Installing a mid-travel kit is a major modification in the eyes of Ford. It will almost certainly void the warranty on suspension components and possibly related systems (steering, wheel bearings, etc.). For example, if an aftermarket coilover leaks, Ford won’t cover it (you’d go to Fox/King etc. for service). If a tie-rod snaps and you have non-stock suspension, they might attribute it to the added stress. Non-suspension issues (engine, electronics) should remain unaffected in warranty, but any claim remotely linked to your suspension could be denied. It’s a risk you accept in exchange for the performance gains. Some owners wait until the factory warranty expires before doing mid or long-travel upgrades.
Long-Travel Kits
For those who want the ultimate off-road suspension, long-travel kits are the answer. A long-travel kit for the Gen 3 Raptor completely transforms the front suspension into a wider, race-inspired setup. These kits typically include:extending the track width ~6″ overall, custom long-travel coilover shocks (often paired with bypass shocks), and all the hardware to keep geometry in check at extreme travel. In essence, you’re turning your Raptor into a Baja race truck while (usually) keeping it bolt-on.
Long-travel kits replace nearly every moving part in the front suspension: upper and lower control arms are longer, often made of 4130 chromoly plate or billet; the CV axles are lengthened or replaced to accommodate the wider arms; the tie rods are longer; brake lines extended; and the shock is relocated or new shock towers are added to allow more suspension stroke. Many kits convert the upper ball joint to a uniball for extra articulation and strength. The result is a suspension that can cycle dramatically more than stock – 15–18″+ of travel is common. The stance becomes wider for stability.
On Gen 3 Raptors, companies like Foutz, SVC, Blitzkrieg, and Evil Manufacturing have developed long-travel systems. They widen the front track by about 3″ per side (6″ overall). For example, Foutz’s +3″ kit boasts ~15% more wheel travel than stock and retains high-speed stability. Evil’s kit (featured in DrivingLine) widened 3.5″ per side and achieved 19″ of front wheel travel (about +6″ over a stock Raptor with 37s). These numbers give a sense of the massive capability increase – the truck can absorb terrain that would bottom-out a stock suspension.
However, long-travel kits are expensive and involved. They push the Raptor to its off-road limits, but also come with serious considerations:
Pros:
- Maximum Wheel Travel: The primary benefit is huge suspension travel gains. An increase of 40–50% in usable wheel travel means the truck can soak up monstrous bumps. High-speed desert whoops that would send a stock Raptor bouncing can be taken in stride with a well-tuned long-travel. As noted, one build hit 19″ front travel and 22″ rear travel with long-travel – 6–8″ more than factory on the 37″ package Raptor. This translates to incredible off-road smoothness and the ability to take bigger jumps with less drama.
- Wider Stance = More Stability: By widening the track several inches, the Raptor becomes more stable in cornering and less likely to tip when navigating off-camber terrain. The broader footprint, combined with longer travel, keeps the truck planted. “The increased track width…gives it more stability overall”– you can carry more speed through rough corners without the rear stepping out as easily.
- Heavy-Duty Race-Grade Parts: Long-travel kits replace vulnerable stock parts with robust ones. Thick-wall control arms, uniball joints, 300M alloy axles, etc., withstand hardcore off-road abuse that might bend or break stock components. These kits are often derived from off-road race technology, so durability is top-notch. Heim joints or uniballs are used in place of ball joints for strength. Some kits add secondary bypass shocks for additional damping (allowing fine-tuning for large impacts vs small bumps). Overall, the suspension system is far more rugged.
- Off-Road Performance “Halo” Effect: With a long-travel Raptor, you’re approaching the performance of true trophy trucks. You can blast through desert terrain at speeds few production vehicles can touch. Deep ruts, rocky trails, and sand dunes become much easier to conquer at speed because the suspension simply irons out obstacles. The ride off-road can actually be plush over large bumps – what jars a normal truck is just a mild event with 18″ of travel. If your goal is to routinely drive very fast off-road or tackle desert races (like the Baja 500/1000 in a stock chassis class), long-travel is the way to get there.
Cons:
- Very High Cost: Long-travel kits are the most expensive option by far. A complete front long-travel kit (arms, axles, coils, shocks, etc.) can easily cost $8,000–$15,000+. For instance, SVC’s Gen3 mid-travel (which they consider long-travel performance) is around $16k with shocks. That’s not including installation labor. Rear long-travel upgrades (e.g. cantilever shock setups, link kits) are additional. This kind of investment approaches or exceeds the cost of a side-by-side UTV – definitely not trivial.
- More Complex Installation & Potential Fabrication: Many long-travel kits are advertised as “bolt-on,” but in reality, the install is intensive. You often have to cut or grind off stock bump stop brackets or droop stops, install new shock towers or reinforcement plates, etc. Alignment becomes trickier with the custom geometry. Some kits may require welding (e.g. welding in shock hoops or plating the frame for strength). It’s a job for an experienced off-road shop; DIY is only for those with significant skills and equipment.
- Fiberglass Fenders Needed: Because the wheels will travel farther and the track is wider, most long-travel setups require aftermarket fender flares or bedsides to provide extra clearance. Companies like Fiberwerx make +2″ or +3″ fenders specifically for Raptors with long-travel. Adding fiberglass fenders adds cost (and they usually need painting) but is necessary to prevent the tires from rubbing badly at full bump travel. It also gives the truck a “pre-runner” look. Some owners might view this as a pro (cool looks), but others may not want to alter the body.
- On-Road Handling Differences: A long-travel Raptor can still drive on road as a daily, but there are trade-offs. The wider stance can make parking tougher and the truck may tramline a bit on highways (following ruts). With soft long-travel springs and big shocks, body roll can increase on turns if sway bars are not upgraded or are removed. Also, aggressive off-road tires often accompany these builds, which can be noisier. In short, you sacrifice some on-road nimbleness and comfort. The truck might feel “bouncier” or looser on pavement (since it’s optimized for off-road stability). It’s generally fine for regular use, but not as crisp as stock on-road.
- Increased Maintenance: Race-grade parts like uniball joints, heim joints, and multiple shocks require more maintenance. Uniballs need periodic cleaning and lubing to prevent corrosion and squeaking. Coilovers and bypass shocks should be serviced (rebuilt) more regularly, especially after harsh use, to keep them performing (whereas the stock Fox LiveValve might last many tens of thousands of miles without service). You’ll need to be proactive about this maintenance, or pay shops to do it. It’s part of the deal with high-performance suspension.
- Warranty Void: It should go without saying that a long-travel kit voids the factory warranty on any suspension or chassis-related components. In fact, installing such a kit is likely to make the dealer decline any claim they can remotely connect to the modification. Even components like the front differential or steering rack – if they were to fail – might be argued as overstressed by the long-travel setup. Basically, once you go this route, you are out of pocket for any fixes to those systems (or you rely on the aftermarket manufacturer’s warranty for their parts). This is a commitment usually taken after the warranty period or by those who prioritize performance above all.
- Ride Quality: On washboard, whoops, and rough trails, a long-travel Raptor’s ride quality is unmatched – incredibly smooth and controlled. The suspension can absorb far bigger hits without transmitting harshness to the cabin. However, on everyday roads, the ride may actually feel softer or more vague than stock. The truck is literally built to float over big bumps, so smaller motions might feel a bit wallowy. With proper tuning (and modern bypass shocks often have adjusters), you can dial in very good manners, but expect a slightly different feel. Some describe their long-travel trucks as “cushy” over speed bumps and potholes – you just don’t feel them much. But quick lane-change maneuvers or tight corners will remind you that you have a lot of suspension travel and a higher center of gravity now. In summary, ride comfort is great in the rough and decent on pavement, but with a trade-off in handling precision.
- Off-Road Performance: This is the core strength of long-travel kits. Off-road, the performance is night-and-day compared to stock or even mid-travel. You can attack terrain at speeds you wouldn’t dare in a stock Raptor. Big desert whoops that might force a stock truck to slow to 35 mph can be taken at 60+ mph with a long-travel, skipping across the tops with ease. Jump landings are far more composed – all that extra travel means a much softer landing, with less chance of bottoming out violently. The wider stance also helps in high-speed cornering on dirt, keeping the truck stable and reducing the chance of rolling. In rocky or uneven terrain, the suspension articulation (especially if combined with a long-travel rear 5-link or cantilever system) keeps tires on the ground for traction. Essentially, you turn the Raptor into a race-ready machine capable of tackling Baja courses. The downside, of course, is you should drive fast off-road to make it worthwhile – if you never push it, you spent a lot for capability you aren’t using.
- Warranty Impact: As mentioned, long-travel kits will void the warranty on all related systems. A Ford service rep or tech will take one look and say any issue in the front end, suspension, steering, or even frame is aftermarket-related. According to one Ford tech, “lift kits…require cutting the frame, which means you can’t just revert back to stock if you change your mind.” More importantly, “lift kits throw off the suspension geometry” and Ford won’t cover resulting problems. In short, you assume full responsibility for the truck’s reliability in those areas. It’s wise to also upgrade anything that might become a weak link (for example, the steering rack or tie rod ends) because if they break, it’s on you. For many long-travel enthusiasts, the warranty isn’t a concern – the performance payoff is worth it – but it’s a conscious trade-off.
Full Suspension Lift Kits (Big Lift Systems)
“Full suspension” lift kits in the context of a Raptor typically mean a 3 to 6-inch lift over stock, achieved by adding components like drop-down crossmembers, taller steering knuckles, strut spacers, and rear lift blocks. Unlike leveling or travel kits which focus on suspension performance, these big lifts are mostly about raising the truck’s ride height for a commanding look and to fit very large tires. Essentially, you are lifting the chassis further off the axles, while trying to maintain the suspension’s factory angles via bracketry.
It’s worth noting that Raptors come fairly high from the factory and can fit 35–37″ tires stock, so huge lifts are less common on Raptors than on regular F-150s. However, some owners do install 4″+ kits to run 40″ tires or simply for the aggressive lifted-truck style. Companies like Fabtech and BDS make Raptor-specific 4″ lift kits (we saw listings for Gen1/2 Raptors, and BDS has one for 2019–2020 Raptors). These kits usually include: new heavy-duty crossmembers to drop the lower control arm mounting points, taller CNC-machined steering knuckles to correct geometry, differential drop brackets, shock extension brackets or spacers, and rear blocks or new springs to lift the rear. The idea is to lift the truck without exceeding the limits of stock suspension components.
One key difference: A full lift does not increase wheel travel or suspension flex; it preserves what the stock suspension had, just at a higher ride height. So you don’t get the performance benefits of a mid or long-travel kit. These lifts are more about aesthetics, ground clearance, and tire clearance.
Pros:
- Dramatic Appearance: There’s no denying a Raptor on a big lift looks imposing. The truck sits visibly taller than stock, which many consider aggressive and eye-catching. If you’re going for the “brodozer” or show truck look, a full lift accomplishes that.
- Fit Oversized Tires: A major reason for a 4–6″ lift is to clear very large tires (38″, 40″, etc.) without rubbing. For example, a 4″ lift allows 37″ tires to fit easily on earlier Raptors, or 40″ on a Gen3 with some trimming. Bigger tires further increase ground clearance and give a rugged off-road aesthetic.
- Increased Ground Clearance: Lifting the suspension raises the truck’s belly and frame higher off the ground. This can be beneficial in off-road situations like rock crawling or deep ruts/mud, where you want clearance under the chassis to avoid getting hung up. With a tall lift and big tires, the Raptor’s approach, departure, and breakover angles all improve, reducing the chance of scraping bumpers or the underside.
- Maintains Factory Ride (in theory): Quality lift kits are engineered to keep the suspension geometry close to stock angles by using the drop brackets and taller knuckles. This means that, in theory, the on-road ride and handling remain similar to stock, just higher up. The factory Fox shocks are retained (often repositioned with spacers), so the basic ride character doesn’t completely change. Kits like BDS even claim to maintain full range of suspension travel on the Fox LiveValve shocks at the new height. Essentially, it’s supposed to feel like a stock Raptor, just taller.
- Off-Road (certain aspects): For slow-speed off-roading, like rock crawling or driving over large obstacles, a big lift plus big tires can be advantageous. You can get over bigger rocks or deeper holes without hitting the frame. In mud bogging, that extra height keeps the body from dragging in the mud. So in specific off-road scenarios, a tall lift does help. (However, see cons below for high-speed off-road trade-offs.)
Cons:
- Adverse Effect on Suspension Geometry: No matter how well-engineered, a large lift changes the suspension’s geometry and stress points. The steering knuckles are taller (which can introduce leverage that stresses them), and the control arm angles are altered (they might angle downward more). This can affect handling – for instance, the suspension may not respond as precisely or you might get a bit more bump-steer. As one Ford tech stated, “lift kits throw off the suspension geometry”, which can degrade the finely tuned feel of the Raptor’s stock setup.
- Reduced High-Speed Performance: The Raptor is designed for high-speed desert running at its stock ride height. Raising the center of gravity 4–6″ makes the truck less stable at speed and in cornering. You may experience more body roll and a tendency for the front to wander on whoops since the suspension can’t cycle as freely (it’s limited by the drop brackets). In essence, a tall lift can undo some of the Raptor’s magic in the desert, making it feel more top-heavy. Many Raptor enthusiasts frown on big lifts for this reason – you gain height but lose some of the balanced, high-speed capability that the Raptor is famous for. (There’s an oft-cited comment in forums: “Get 37s and Geiser springs…it’ll look better than any lift kit and you won’t be committing a cardinal sin”.)
- Ride Can Be Harsher: Some kits use strut spacers to achieve part of the front lift, preloading the coil similar to a leveling kit. This can make the front suspension stiffer over small bumps. Also, adding big heavy tires and wheels increases unsprung weight, which can negatively impact ride quality (harsher impacts) and braking. While the main components try to preserve stock ride, practically you might feel a difference – maybe a bit more truck-like stiffness and some noise from the relocated components.
- Potential Frame Cutting & Irreversibility: Many 4–6″ lift kits require cutting or drilling the frame/suspension mounts to install drop brackets or other parts. For example, trimming the lower control arm pocket to fit a crossmember, or cutting off the bump stop brackets. This means the modification is largely permanent – you can’t easily revert to stock height later because the original mounting points have been altered. It’s a commitment and can hurt resale value if a future buyer wanted a stock Raptor.
- High Cost & Labor: These full lift kits can cost a few thousand dollars (often $2k–$3k for the parts), and installation is labor-intensive. The labor cost at a shop could be another $1k+ since it involves extensive disassembly, cutting, and alignment. So it’s a significant expense, comparable to some mid-travel kits.
- Drivetrain Strain: Larger tires and increased driveline angles can put extra strain on axles, the driveshaft, and differential. The front CV axles operate at steeper angles (though drop brackets mitigate this somewhat). There have been instances of CV or U-joint issues on trucks with big lifts, especially under hard use. Additionally, the higher rotational mass of big tires can stress the transmission and reduce fuel economy. It’s something to keep in mind – you might end up re-gearing differentials or beefing up axles if you go extreme.
- Ride Quality: If designed well, a full lift kit allows the Raptor to ride similarly to stock on normal roads. The spring rates and shock tuning remain factory (since you’re often using stock shocks with extensions). BDS, for example, emphasizes that their 4″ kit maintains the full range of the Fox Live Valve shocks. That said, reality might be a bit different. The truck being higher can give a sensation of body sway and a bit of float, simply because of the higher center of gravity and often softer suspension feel (since no spring rate was added in front, just repositioned). Most owners adjust to it quickly – it still rides better than a solid-axle lifted truck thanks to Raptor’s advanced suspension. Just remember, you’re now essentially driving a taller brick through the air – so wind gusts might be more noticeable and emergency maneuvers feel less sharp. Big, heavy tires also tend to transmit more road imperfections and can cause some tire vibration if not perfectly balanced. Overall: ride quality remains decent, but you lose some of the precision and plushness the stock Raptor had in high-speed scenarios.
- Off-Road Performance: This is a mixed bag. At low speeds on the trail, the lift is beneficial – you can crawl over obstacles without scraping and ford slightly deeper water. However, high-speed off-road performance is generally worse compared to stock. The suspension’s ability to absorb whoops is not improved by the lift; in fact, the altered geometry could make bottom-outs more likely on big hits because the bump stops may engage differently. Also, the truck’s taller stance increases body lean in off-camber terrain at speed. Essentially, you’ve made the Raptor more like a rock-crawler and less like a desert runner. If your off-roading involves slow technical sections, a lift and big tires might serve you well. But if you love blasting down desert washes, a tall lift might disappoint you as the truck could feel less composed than it did stock. Many Raptor owners who try big lifts end up adding heavier duty components (like stronger tie rods, sway bars, etc.) to recoup some of the lost performance, but it never quite equals the finesse of the original suspension design for high-speed work.
- Warranty Impact: Just like any suspension mod, a full lift kit will put parts of your warranty at risk. In fact, a big lift changes so much (steering knuckles, crossmembers, etc.) that any failure in the suspension, steering, or even drivetrain could be blamed on it. For example, if a wheel bearing gives out or the front diff has an issue, Ford might say the stress of larger tires and lift contributed to it. A Bronco forum summed it up: “Short answer, yes. An aftermarket lift can void your warranty in several areas: Suspension, axles & CVs, drive shaft and U-joints, etc. Basically anything associated with the modification.”. They won’t void your whole truck’s warranty, but those related repairs could be denied. If you have an extended warranty or are within factory warranty, consider the risk – or see if Ford Performance offers an approved lift (though for Raptors, they really don’t beyond minor leveling). Some dealerships are mod-friendly, especially if they sell Roush or Shelby tuned Raptors, but it’s case-by-case. Expect that you’ll be covering issues out-of-pocket if they can be linked to the lift.
Choosing the Right Lift Kit for Your Needs
Now that we’ve detailed the options, how do you decide which (if any) lift is right for your Gen 3 Raptor? It boils down to your priorities, driving habits, and budget. Here are some guidelines and considerations to help you choose:
- Primarily Daily Driving & Looks: If your Raptor is mainly a daily driver or street cruiser and you’re lifting mostly for the appearance (level stance or a bit of extra height), a leveling kit is likely the best choice. It’s inexpensive, easy to install, and maintains the factory reliability and comfort. You’ll get a tougher look with minimal downsides. As one source suggests: Choose a leveling kit if you simply want to correct rake, fit slightly larger tires, and you’re on a budget. This is the route for those who want the Raptor to look “right” (especially if adding accessories like a front bumper or winch that might sag the stock springs). Just be mindful of not over-doing it – stick to ~2″ or so to avoid front-end strain.
- Mild Off-Roading & Improved Handling: If you use your Raptor off-road on weekends (trails, dunes) but nothing extreme – or you just find the stock suspension a bit too soft on-road – consider a mid-travel upgrade or at least upgraded springs/shocks. For example, swapping to Geiser or Eibach springs and perhaps 3.0 aftermarket shocks can level the truck and improve handling. This is great for those who want a more controlled ride and plan to hit moderate trails or the occasional local off-road park. It will cost more than a spacer lift, but you’ll feel the difference in both daily driving (tighter, sportier feel) and off-road (smoother landings, less bottoming out). If budget allows, a full mid-travel kit with upper arms and bump stops is a robust solution for an all-purpose Raptor – you can daily drive it, road-trip it, and thrash it off-road with confidence. For many owners, this is the optimal balance.
- Hardcore Off-Road Enthusiast (Desert/High-Speed): If you bought the Raptor to truly use it as intended – bombing through the desert, high-speed runs, maybe even jumping it – and you find the stock limits too low, a long-travel kit could be your endgame. This is for the owner who spends significant time in places like Glamis, Baja, or Moab and wants their truck to perform on par with race vehicles. Be prepared for the high cost and the fact that your Raptor will essentially become a custom toy (less so a daily commuter). It’s wise to do long-travel only if you know you’ll utilize it. Also, think about supporting mods: long-travel front often pairs with a rear suspension upgrade (like a spring-under conversion or cantilever kit) to balance the truck. It’s a path you commit to for ultimate off-road performance. If that’s your dream, nothing else will truly satisfy. Just remember, it’s not reversible without great expense, and the truck’s road manners will be different.
- Maximum Lift & Tire Size (Show Truck or Specific Needs): Perhaps you simply love the lifted look, or you plan to tackle mud bogs or slow-speed rock terrain where height is king. In that case, a full 4-6″ suspension lift could be your choice. This will let you run giant tires and tower over other trucks. It’s a valid route if that matches your use – for instance, some hunters or trail riders might value the ground clearance and aren’t concerned about high-speed desert running. If you go this way, invest in a high-quality kit (like BDS or Fabtech) and have it installed by a reputable shop to ensure alignment and performance are as good as can be. Also, consider upgrading the steering (beefier tie rods) and brakes (to handle bigger tires) as part of the build. And know that many in the Raptor community might playfully rib you for sacrificing some of the Raptor’s specialty (don’t let that deter you if a big lift meets your goals – it’s your truck, build it for you).
- Warranty and Future Plans: If your Raptor is brand new and you’re wary of voiding the warranty, you might stick to a mild leveling kit or Ford Performance parts. Ford Performance (formerly Ford Racing) sometimes offers dealer-installed leveling options or tune shocks that keep warranty intact – worth checking. If you plan to trade the truck in a couple years, a big long-travel build might not make financial sense (you won’t recoup the cost, and a heavily modified truck can be harder to sell). On the other hand, if this is your keeper toy, you might be more willing to invest. Consider also the environment: if you live where there are countless off-road opportunities, you’ll get more enjoyment from a performance suspension. If you’re mostly on-road, focus on looks and ride quality.
- Incremental Approach: You don’t have to decide everything at once. Many owners start with a leveling spring kit, see how they like it, then maybe add upper control arms and better shocks later (stepping into mid-travel territory). You could run that for a while, and if one day you outgrow it, upgrade to long-travel. This phased approach spreads out cost and lets you feel the differences. Just be mindful that some parts might not carry over (e.g. money spent on mid-travel shocks might be redundant if you go long-travel with different shocks). But generally, it’s fine to start small and build up as needed.
In summary, match the lift to your usage. If unsure, err on the side of the less extreme – you can always upgrade later. A leveled or mid-travel Raptor can tackle 90% of off-road situations Raptor owners typically encounter, all while keeping the truck civil on the street. Long-travel and big lifts are more specialized – amazing in the right context, but with downsides in others. There is no “one size fits all” answer; it’s about what you want out of your Raptor. As one guide put it: choose a suspension lift if you need a total transformation and serious off-road clearance, or choose a leveling kit if you just want to tidy up the stance and don’t need drastic changes.